For dessert, the espresso pot de crème is the perfect way to end. The kitchen deftly turns out a barbequed quail wrapped in pancetta with honey and sage, and a memorable cedar smoked ocean trout. Molina also shines at crafting seasonal California flavors in subtler small plates - we liked the simple, pure flavors of milky burrata with rye berries, fresh nectarines and mint, and also a striking Royal Hamachi crudo offset by cherries, tarragon and chervil. For a more robust, rustic appeal, try the maccheroni alla chitarra with Salt Spring black mussels. Ethereal celery root triangles with buttered shallots and chives melt on the tongue. Fettuccine, just al dente, mingles with a flavorful, succulently rich pork ragù. Likes: Seriously great pasta hip yet casual atmosphere dynamic wine list.ĭislikes: It gets pretty loud, especially on weekends.įood & Drinks: The pasta at Hippo, made by hand daily, is not only likely the best in Highland Park, or the Eastside, but arguably a strong contender for best in LA. It’s a fairly rocking Eastside crowd, but fans have come from further afield for Molina’s cooking too. The long bar is a bit of a scene, and the rather stark patio out back is shared with Molina’s pizza joint next door. White walls pop with graphic orange flowers like a cross between Matisse and Keith Haring, and a warm golden light bathes wood tables and chairs. An open kitchen showcases Molina and his crew in a lively culinary theater, and the sprawling restaurant feels spacious under a lofty bow truss wooden ceiling. The décor: Like its Highland Park environs, Hippo is stylish, fun and funky. Partnering again with Clement, and Joe Capella of Silverlake Wine, Hippo followed a year later, just across the breezeway, sharing the same complex. He subsequently left to open the Everson Royce Bar downtown, and then partnered with Silverton and Silverlake Wine’s Randy Clement to launch Triple Beam Pizza in Highland Park in 2018.
About the chef: Matt Molina got his start cooking at Campanile under Nancy Silverton, and also worked at Osteria Mozza.
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